The Peculiarities of Loading 350 Legend – Lee Pacesetter Die Set


if it’s true that the difference between
science and screwing around is writing it down then we’re in big trouble
no I’m just kidding we have plenty of data written down today we’re going to
be loading up 350 legend if you have missed the previous video where I talked
about what I think 350 legend is and how it kind of fits into the market and what
sort of folks might be interested in it go check out that video I’ll put a link
around here somewhere but today we’re actually going to start loading up these
cartridges now I’ve already done this a bunch so I kind of have some ideas of
the techniques that need to go into this this is a little bit of a strange case
especially when it comes to the brass because you’re going to need to use some
of the techniques that you normally do when you’re loading up a cartridge like 357 Magnum or you know 38 special nine-millimeter this is
a little bit different though because it also includes some of the techniques
that you need for shaping a bottle necked cartridge this is not a straight
walled cartridge it is straight walled but it isn’t a cylinder it’s actually on
a taper and so this is gonna require a little bit of extra work let’s dive in
but first I want you to see what tools were working with here today one of the
most important tools on my bench of my vernier calipers and these inexpensive
Frankford ones that work just fine over the years I have like these a lot I have
however finally made the upgrade to install the the Lock and Load projectile
comparator from Hornady I’ve gotten lots of complaints in the past people
wondering why in the world I’m still measuring from the base of my case out
to the tip of my projectile when I’m getting my overall lengths that I should be
measuring to where the ogive begins and I do agree but here’s the the big secret
it’s not that big a deal if you want to be able to measure out to the tip of the
projectile you’re still going to get great information yes it can vary a little bit
but as long as you kind of average out some of those lengths it still does work
and I’ve gotten good results if you want to get even better results though yes I
absolutely agree this is going to do the job so I do have this installed today
some of the things that we’ll be working with we have Hodgdon h 110 Magnum pistol
powder this is one that’s well known for use in 357 Magnum 44 Magnum 454 casull
some of the big heavy Magnum rounds and we’re going
to be combining these with small rifle primers from Winchester these are not
the magnums these are regular now for case prep this is where things start to
get weird these cases yes they are straight walled but these have a taper
to them these are not cylindrical cases and I was really hoping that they would
be and that it wouldn’t take a whole lot of work to be able to shape these cases
unfortunately you do have to Lube these up and go through those extra steps so
what I’ve done is instead of using the the old Lube pad like I used to
I’m using Hornady one-shot case lube all you have to do is just give a spray
from two different angles on these making sure you get the angles just
right and then just let it sit for a minute and then we can reshape these
which is what we’re gonna do now the dyes that were using come from Lee this
is the pacesetter dye set and it comes with absolutely everything including a
shell holder the only thing that it’s missing is a crimp dye if you want to
use one of these because a lot of the projectiles that we’re gonna be messing with
have a Candler and you can put a crimp on them to help seat them a lot of time
if you’re dealing with heavier projectiles and heavier recoil you want to kind of
lock these projectiles into place inside the case so that they aren’t being pushed
back and possibly causing some high pressure situations however in
especially this cartridge 350 Legend I’m going to try to avoid crimp if I can
just because it can cause some problems now this is the only crimp dye that I
would want to use in 350 Legend this is a collet style and you can kind of
choose how much you apply and it applies pretty equally across its whole surface
the roll crimp dyes are causing some problems where you kind of get the case
mouth jamming up into the throat in the chamber and that can cause some
overpressure and some really bad issues I’ll link to a video that shows that off
but yeah if I do want to apply crimp that’s the one if step one is to
full-length resize the brass step zero would have been that Lube application
and then step negative one would have been to pick the right brass to begin
with this Starline brass is Incred be precise as I showed in a previous
video which I’ll link to here I have measured 350 legend and 458 SOCOM brass
from Star Line to find that the their lengths are incredibly precise they are
all under the the spec as they need to be but within a very close tolerance
their weights are also very close to each other with extremely small standard
deviations of mass make sure you check that video out length on 350 Legend is
very important because remember that this all headspace is off the case mouth
there is no bottle neck shoulder to bump up against there is no external rim
sticking out there’s no belt nothing it’s all based on this right here so if
this gets too long it can actually jam up inside the throat and pinch the
projectile creating overpressure if this gets too short
then you can stretch the brass in the chamber under firing creating a case
head separation which none of us want the press that we’re using today is the
RCBS rock sucker supreme which is a giant Magnum press this can handle
anything up to 50 BMG make sure you check out the video that I’ve done on
this where I show its installation and some of the features on this this is a
little bit of a weird installation you’ll want to see how I did it but yeah
we’ll just run it up into the full length sizer dye this press is a toggle
over center model so when I push it all the way up I need to push it just a
little bit further to get that kind of cam over that’s going to get me a little
extra torque and you can set your dye up the way that you want it if you don’t
want that toggle over Center you can kind of skip it on this one but I think
in this case it’s probably a fine idea at this point we need to measure our
lengths to make sure that we’re not getting too long as long as it’s under
that one point seven one zero then we’re fine and we certainly are so this is
looking just fine we don’t have to trim this if we did want to I would use the
RCBS trim Pro to which I have over here this is one that you can use to trim
like everything that you have it just comes with the pilots back there
whatever case you have this can probably take care of it and you can get those
all trimmed up in this case we don’t have to which is nice
but what we do need to do is clean this up the lube that’s on the outside and on
the inside of the case can get a little bit sticky I know that all these case
lube manufacturers will tell us that it’s not actually going to hurt anything
that it’s not going to cause the powder to stop working but I just don’t like to
put anything on my case you know if I’m going to load up a magazine I don’t want
anything that can attract debris this this Lube could possibly you know pick
up sand and dirt and all that and make it stick to the case and I certainly
don’t want that so time to chuck it into the tumbler after just a few minutes in
the tumbler the brass is clean and ready to be primed take a look at my primer
pocket this is all nice and shiny this is brand-new brass if you want to clean
up your primer pocket for more precise ignition and just to make sure that
everything is uniform you can use this guy right here which I’ve been using for
about a year or so this is the RCBS brass boss this is a wonderful little
station that has multiple different tools you have a chamfer deburr and then
you have all kinds of primer pocket fixing tools so this one will remove
military crimp if you’re dealing with that you have a cleaner and a uniform ER
so this can actually kind of cut into the brass and at least clean it up to
make sure that everything is uniform and nice and pretty
in my case though all I need to do is prime this and now we move on to a step
that you rifle hand loaders may have never tried before these straight wall
cases work a little bit differently than your bottleneck brass which usually has
a little bit of a thicker neck and you can just put a little chamfer on and
very easily slide your projectile in there these are pretty different those of us
that load for hand guns or lever guns know that we need to expand the case
mouth just a little bit to make sure that the projectile actually seats in there
this is the expander dye right here and what you do is you back this off and I’m
gonna run my case up into the dye okay so I’ve got it totally topped out as I
start to screw this in eventually I will feel it make
solid contact with the case mouth okay that’s it right there that’s my spot
that’s where it’s first making contact what I want to do is flare the case
mouth enough that it can seat a projectile very neatly and I should be able to just
you know kind of push the projectile down inside a little bit but I don’t want to
flare it out so much that I’m overworking my brass I don’t want to
have a huge opening that I have to kind of close back up each time I load this
I want this brass to last as long as possible I’ve already figured out my
spot you’ll have to figure out yours but you just kind of turn this in by
increments until you get the right depth for you so when I push I’m going to feel
a little bit of tension I can kind of feel some of the friction in there and
here is what we’re looking at I’m gonna zoom in so you can see the case mouth
just a little bit you can probably see some streaks in there some kind of dark
and light streaks so that’s showing where I have gone in and kind of flared
things out a little bit this should seat a projectile very neatly now remember that
we can deal with two different diameters 355 and 357 the 355 s in general they
might just seat without much of any Flair at all you might not actually need
anything and this is a 147-grain TMJ from Speer that we’re using it’s a
wonderful projectile and this is going to be a fun one for plinking around at the
range but we’re also going to be seating some 357 s today and I want to make sure
that when I push them inside that they just fit very neatly and I’m not getting
into any issues where I’m going to be crushing the brass because I actually
did that a little earlier I didn’t have quite enough Flair with the on the 357
and I totally squished some brass but yeah this is gonna fit nicely a couple
of notes about the expander dye this does include a funnel up here at the top
so you can actually once you’ve done your expanding you can just leave it at
the top dump in your powder and it’ll fill the case this however has some Lube
on the inside to begin with so you need to clean this out otherwise the powder
is gonna stick all inside here and make a great
big mess don’t ask me how I know this funnel is removable so if you have one
of the attachable kind of powder hoppers like say you’re using one of these
progressive presses and you want to be able to just automatically dump in the
powder you can do that it’ll fit inside there also if you have these Lee funnels
these will stick neatly on the top of that funnel so you can get your powder
dispensed a little bit more easily in there without having to make an attempt at
this small aperture I’m going to be measuring my powder using the RCBS
chargemaster light previously reviewed I’ll put a link to that in the
description below this is a less expensive model than the
old 1500 and a bunch of the others out on the market but this makes precise
powder measurement very easy twenty six point three grains of powder now it’s time for the projectile seating dye
which performs two functions you’ll remember that we flared the case mouth
which means that it’s actually out of spec right now it’s a little bit too
wide we want to have the case squeezed around the projectile to give it a good neck
tension and make sure that projectile doesn’t drift around under recoil and
then we also want to make sure that this will fit very nicely in the chamber we
need to get this back down to spec and that’s part of the job of this this is
kind of a job of feeling it out you’re gonna have to turn this in until it
meets the spot that you think works and you’re gonna be using your calipers to
figure out what your case mouth should actually be I already have my spot
figured out here and then this up here is going to be for your proper projectile
seating so what I’m gonna do to start out with is just back this off a whole
bunch to make sure that I’m not pushing the projectile too far in there because I
can continue to work it in but once I get so far I don’t want to have to pull
the projectile back out again so here I go I’ve got my 147-grain TMJ I can push it
very easily into the mouth of the case and then alright I could feel it barely
make contact so I can definitely start to oh no there we go there is contact as
I turn this in I can feel that it finally touches the projectile there so I
can back this off and start screwing this down and see what kind of dimension
that I have here and start to push this back little by little until I hit my
match here are my dimensions I’m gonna put my
formula for this particular load I’m not afraid to put the the load data on this
one I’ll put my recipe on the screen for you guys so you can see what I’ve been
doing this one is so mild that I’m not concerned about putting the load data
out nothing edgy about this at all as you start working in your projectile this is
where you have a choice of measuring from the the base back here to the nose
to the very tip using your vernier calipers or if you do have one of these
you can be a little bit more precise than that so I’m looking for one point
eight one zero and I’m just gonna keep turning this
cedar stem into until I get exactly what I’m after a couple of notes on the Li
collet crimp dye this is the one that you’re going to want to use like I
mentioned earlier just because of the way that it works
remember that headspace with 350 Legend is based on the case mouth it’s gonna
bump up against a little shoulder inside the chamber and that’s how it’s going to
sit inside there if you crimp too much you can actually
slide past that point and jam up the projectile inside there and that’s some of
the stuff that was found out by eagle-eye there was actually
some factory ammo that was crimped a little too hard and so it was actually
pushing up into the throat squeezing the projectile creating some pretty big
overpressure and causing problems like case head separations blown primers so
whatever that was it did not work this one can just remember that you don’t
have much tolerance to work with if you do put a crimp on there you’re probably
gonna have to break out those calipers and make sure that you’re not going to
slide past that little shoulder in there get just enough that it’s gonna grab the
projectile give you some decent tension don’t do it so much that you can
actually ruin things now we’re moving on to 357 diameter we’re adding another mm
to that diameter this is going to have a little bit more neck tension and this is
a little bit of a heavier projectile so we’re looking at a 158 grain spear deep
curl and you can see that these have a gigantic met Platt and here’s where we
start to get into some issues if you have a bolt gun this will probably work
whatever kind of magazine you have as long as it isn’t butting up against the
front of the mag I think that these will probably see it okay for you if you have
the AR unfortunately these don’t work I had to hand load each of these kind of
in from the side in order to get them to to feed in there these just would not
feed in an AR so sorry about that we’ll continue to look at different
projectiles to see if we can get some that
a bit more of a point to them I have some 125 grain errs from Remington that
I think will do the trick some soft points yeah these will not feed one
other thing to note since this does have a little bit of a higher diameter it
gets into higher pressures a little bit more quickly so if you are working in
quick load or you know some other way to kind of figure out what kind of powder
charge you need back off just a little bit because I know that the max charge
that I got from quick load was a little bit too high I got up toward that ninth
round and I was noticing some pressure signs so I backed off and what we have
is this recipe that you see here on the screen since this is a new cartridge a
lot of this you kind of have to figure out on your own and in quick load I was
trying to figure out what kind of depth I wanted on all these projectiles if you are
going to concoct your own recipes there are a couple different ways that you
could do this but what I wanted to do is get at least one projectile diameters depth
inside the case and that’s what we have here this is 355 thousands deep and then
the cannelure on these projectiles is also exactly one projectile with deep as well so
I just seated right up to the edge of that I was expecting 350 legend to be
simpler to load up as you can see it’s actually one of the more complicated
ones out there because you have to treat it simultaneously like it’s a straight
wall cartridge you know allow pistol and you have to kind of treat it like a
bottleneck as well so yeah this takes a lot of steps to get it to where it is
but once you do have some of these cooked up it’s pretty well worth it
these are really fun to use as we’re gonna discuss in you know kind of the
final review and some of the other tests were gonna do with this I think this is
gonna be a very solid performer out at the range just having fun but then also
when it comes time to do a little hog hunting I think this one’s gonna work
really well it’s all gonna depend on projectile type and we’re gonna continue to
work up some of the the projectiles in here and see how we can kind of couple a
really good flight through the air with a really solid hit on gel I want to be
able to mess up whatever animal that I hit with this thanks a lot for watching
you guys make sure that you like share subscribe and especially hit the
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seeing what’s going on around here thank you to everybody that has made this
project possible Speer donated the projectiles thanks a lot Starline donated
the excellent brass and of course we have the patrons of the destructive arts
that have kept the lights on and kept the cameras rolling for years now you
guys Rock and if anybody else wants to chip in a
buck or two a month to keep these lights on keep these cameras rolling and you
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thank you especially to patrons of the destructive arts on the 338 Lapua Magnum
level we have sportsmen guide and Stan and Mary and then we have Joseph Davies
and Joseph Davis and Peter at the 300 Win Mag level I’ll see everybody around
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13 thoughts on “The Peculiarities of Loading 350 Legend – Lee Pacesetter Die Set

  1. I actually got bored this week and I'm working on some 7mm08 reloads 15 of them that will take a few days to get loaded

    Noticed I had some nice nickle plate once fired brass I could use and figured I wanted some more of them sierra 160 grain hollow points for hunting I like so much I load to 2550-2600 fps

    Now i need 308 dies and some bullets as that brass is stacking up also

  2. COL is important for this reason when looking at reloading data. PV=nRT.
    The pressure data (and thus velocity) is only valid if you seat a particular bullet to
    a specified depth that is specified in your reloading manual. Reloading manuals do not
    index off the ogive. Of course you can derive the base to ogive length, but The
    Social Regressive is right … it's no big deal, it's just easier and faster to measure base
    to ogive.

  3. Have you ever considered setting you caliper to 0 at the desired length, then using it to get an over/under measurement? Is that how you checked the case length? Watching on my phone; it's difficult to see the measurements.

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